Dog picture taken by Gino.

Dog picture taken by WoofBC.

Nobody can deny that Golden Retrievers are exceptionally good-looking and loyal. They not only make great hunting companions but also charming family pets. Golden Retrievers can guide the blind, detect drugs, and even track people who are reported missing. In spite of the large variety of fascinating breeds available, Golden Retrievers are in a unique class of their own.

Do not be in a hurry to purchase a Golden Retriever pup. Take your time and exercise a lot of patience. You want to buy a healthy pup, which will grow up into a fine dog. You might end up with the wrong type of pup if you rush into a purchase. You can save a lot of valuable time and money by not rushing into making a purchase and carefully selecting your pup.

Learn about the Breed

Find out a few facts about the breed before you purchase a Golden Retriever for a pet. You can learn as much as possible about the dog of your choice from dog shows, which give you a chance to meet other owners of this breed.

Visit the local Kennel Club. Golden Retriever owners are proud of their pets and will be enthusiastic and eager to share any amount of information with you. Members of the local branches of the Golden Retriever Club of America can provide with a comphrehensive list of dog breeders in your locality.

Purchase from the Right Source

It is a good idea to purchase your Golden Retriever pup from local puppy mills or backyard breeders. In fact, the best purchase of a Retriever pup can be made from backyard breeders because they not only have plenty of knowledge about the breed but also take good care of them.

Moreover, backyard breeders are not just interested in making a profit. They actually have a genuine concern and liking for the dogs and will see to it that you get the best pup. Even if the breeders don’t have any pups for sale at the moment, they can guide you to other breeders and thus help you find the pup of your heart’s desire. You can thereby ensure that you get your pup from a reliable sources.

There are several breeders who are interested only in getting a profit or just want a litter. Beware of such breeders because they usually produce Golden Retrievers of poor quality. They hardly care for the dogs’ health, looks, temparament, or quality. If you purchase a pup from such sources, you will find yourself with a dog that has poor health, the wrong type of temparament, and breed defects.

When you purchase your Golden Retriever pup, think about the long-term consequences of the purchase. Purchase from a reliable breeder of high quality, and you will have nothing more to worry about. After all, you are not just buying a puppy, you are getting yourself a life-long friend and companion.

Dog picture taken by me’nthedogs.

Dog picture taken by WoofBC.

this vid is of my partners pup Bull mastiff rocky standing up to my Rottweiler Leeroy.., makes me giggle!

MacDuff my 5mos old griff pup likes to think he can talk to people and sing too

Dog picture taken by Aislinn Ritchie.

This is my dog , his name is Toby. He is my best friend , and he was born on 20 march 2007. He still is a pup now. One of his first tricks is to bring me back something I throw. As he knows more tricks I will film them and upload asap. Have fun watching

Boo in my lap and some footage of his littermates as well. Taken on the day I met our lovely breeder in person and got to pick Boo pup (who used to be known as Frederick ) 25/8/07 one day short of being 5 weeks old!

After the pup has a good idea of what you want him to do, begin to ease off using tidbits every time. Do not let yourself use tidbits as a bribe. It is very easy to fall into the trap of thinking that if you give a puppy a treat he will be good. But from the dog’s viewpoint, it looks like you are treating him as top dog and whatever he wants to do is okay with you. So only use tidbits when you are teaching a specific thing and only long enough to be sure he has learned it and associates the act with the word for it. Then ease off to the point of stopping the use.

Do not expect overnight results: Puppies learn in spurts and starts. One day he may know absolutely everything and perform to perfection. The next day it is as though he never had a moment’s training. Too many owners make the mistake of thinking that if their puppy does it right once or twice he knows it forever, but it really takes hundreds of repetitions for a puppy to learn something.

A puppy or a dog needs at least one month of consistent daily repetition before any action becomes a part of his routine. Train the pup consistently for one month, then continue for one month longer than you think is necessary. Then you can expect him to know what you are talking about, but you must continue daily use of the commands, using an occasional reminder when the pup is having an “off” day.

Be consistent: There is a wide range of individual approaches to working with a puppy. Each person will be guiding his own puppy to live in harmony with the lifestyle of that particular home. Similar to raising children, there are many different learning environments that can, each one, be successful. The key to success is to be consistent in your demands and your discipline.

Puppies need feedback: A puppy learns by getting feedback from his owner. Praise him so he will know when he has done something right. Otherwise he will never learn what it is you want him to do. Then he will get confused because you keep nagging him and hollering at him and he does not know why. He will turn into a hyperactive nervous wreck. So let him know when he has done a good job.

Hands off: Keep your hands off the puppy as much as possible except to pat in praise. It may be necessary once in a while to manipulate him with your hands, but this should be the exception. It is easy to get into the habit of constantly grabbing, pushing and pulling. A puppy is not learning unless he is actually doing the action himself. This is why it is so important to guide him into doing what you want. The actions (sit, heel, come) that he repeats under his own power quickly become a part of his conditioning and he will begin to repeat them willingly.

If you take all the previous points into consideration, you are automatically teaching your puppy to pay attention. By adhering to his physical and psychological needs, you will find that he will respond to you and you will be well on your way to building a good puppy-person relationship.

In teaching your puppy the “Come” command, position yourself several feet away from him. Kneel or bend down, say his name and then come, at the same time you are clapping your hands. Repeat this several times if necessary to get the puppy to come to you. As the puppy begins to understand this exercise, and as you begin to get his attention more easily, move back a few feet farther.

Do not make the mistake of calling him from a distance of twenty-five or thirty yards when he is not paying attention to you. If you do that and he ignores you, you are teaching him that it is okay to ignore you. You are defeating the purpose of puppy pre-training, which is to pattern him to pay attention to you and to do what you ask of him.

Another great activity is the “Fetch” command. Even if you have a breed that is not a retriever, fetching is a great thing for the puppy to learn. It is not only an easy and pleasant way to exercise a dog but is also the basis for many other tasks the dog can learn in the future such as carrying the newspaper.

Teaching retrieving is easy and fun if you do not expect perfect performance the first few times. Remind yourself that this will not come naturally to all pups at first, especially the very independent and the very shy pups. You just have to keep at it. The rewards are great. The younger you begin teaching this, the easier it will be.

Tie a sock or small cloth (white or light color) in a knot. Dangle it excitingly in front of the pup’s mouth. Encourage him if he starts to lick it or opens his mouth. Toss the sock a couple of feet in front of the pup. If he goes to it and sniffs, praise him like crazy! If he picks it up, attract his attention to come back to you by calling him, clapping your hands, patting the floor or whatever will entice him to return. Do not overdo this exercise. Two or three retrieves at a time is plenty. If he is not too excited about it, once is enough.

Gradually increase the length of your throw. If the pup reaches the point where he picks it up and runs away, put a cord or string on his collar and gently guide him back to you. Some people prefer using a small ball. The movement is a good attention-getter. Just be sure that you do not throw the ball too far to get the pup’s attention.

Experts suggest using a brightly colored ball and rolling it off his nose from the top of his head. If the movement of the ball does not interest the pup, face him close to a wall so that the ball will roll back out towards the pup again.

Puppy training can be taught in many various different forms, and it is especially important to be clear on your vocal training commands.  Your little pup may become confused if told the same things that may have different meanings to you. For a great example, let’s refer to the command words “OFF” and “DOWN”.

It is important to learn the difference between “OFF!” and “DOWN!.” When you get into obedience work, you will use the command “DOWN!” to mean that the pup will lie down. Therefore, while you’re working on the problem of jumping up on or at you, don’t use the wrong command. Tell Puppy “OFF!” And what if she doesn’t? Let’s examine why a puppy jumps before we try to eradicate jumping.

Have you ever greeted someone you love and been able to see only that person’s ankles? Don’t you want to look into the face of your beloved? So does your puppy, so, being very short, it jumps up to see you. The first thing you can do to begin to eradicate the unacceptable jumping is bending or squatting down to greet your puppy. You bend and your puppy doesn’t have to jump up to see your face. That’s an important beginning. Second, every time the puppy jumps up on you, take his/her front paws, put him off you firmly, and while you’re doing this, say “OFF!” loudly and firmly. If you do this, coupled with the bend-over greeting, while the puppy is still young, you have no need for rougher methods. Remember to pat him and say “Good Puppy” as soon as all four feet are on the floor.

Praise must always follow any attempt by the pup to do what you’ve demanded, even if the attempt is a pretty casual version of what you have in mind as ideal compliance. Your praise is your puppy’s reward for good behavior. However, maybe you have a year-old stubborn-minded dog who has been running your life his way before you read this. You don’t need me to tell you that you have a problem! You’re going to have to get rougher than the behavior described above if you want results. I suggest a knee-jerk reaction. When you see your dog coming at you to jump, bring your knee up fast against his chest. At the same time, shout “NO. OFF!” Do this every time. You may even shove with your knee. Knocking the dog down once or twice may be beneficial to it in getting the message across; certainly it’ll be beneficial to you in working off some frustrations.

One of the first dog training protocol you will want to initiate when you get a new puppy is to teach him to inhibit the force of his play-bites. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup, and certainly physical punishments are not called for. But it is essential to let your puppy know that bites can hurt. A simple “Ouch!” is usually sufficient. When the puppy backs off, take a short time-out to “lick your wounds,” instruct your pup to come, sit, and lie down to apologize and make up. Then resume playing.

If your puppy does not respond to your yelp by easing up or backing off, an effective technique is to call the puppy a “Bully!” and then leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup a minute or two time-out to reflect on the association between his painful bite and the immediate departure of his favorite human chew-toy. Then return to make up. It is important to show that you still love your puppy, only that his painful bites are objectionable. Have your pup come and sit and then resume playing once more.

It is much better for you to walk away from the pup than to physically restrain him or remove him to his confinement area at a time when he is biting too hard. So make a habit of playing with your puppy in his long- term confinement area. This technique is remarkably effective with lead- headed dogs, since it is precisely the way puppies learn to inhibit the force of their bites when playing with each other. If one puppy bites another too hard, the dog who gets bitten yelps and playing is postponed while he licks his wounds. The biter soon learns that hard bites interrupt an otherwise enjoyable play session. He learns to bite more softly once play resumes.

The next step is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even though the “bites” no longer hurt. While your puppy is chewing his human chew-toy, wait for a bite that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt, even though it didn’t: “Ouch – Gennntly! That really hurt me, you bully!” Your puppy begins to think, “Good heavens! These humans are soooooo sensitive. I’ll have to be really careful when mouthing their delicate skin.” And that’s precisely what you want your pup to think: that he needs to be extremely careful and gentle when playing with people.

Your pup should learn not to hurt people well before he is three months old. Ideally, by the time he is four and a half months old (before he develops strong jaws and adult canine teeth) he should no longer be exerting any pressure when mouthing.

Life can be busy. Between full time careers and outside obligations during off-work time, we must remember that our little puppy need as much attention as possible when we are at home with them. You should enjoy short play and training sessions hourly. If you cannot pay full attention to your puppy’s every single second, play with your pup in his playpen, where a suitable toilet and toys are available.

Or, for periods of no longer than an hour at a time, confine your puppy to his doggy den, or short-term close confinement area, such as a portable dog crate. Every hour, release your puppy and quickly take him to his doggy toilet. Your puppy’s short-term confinement area should include a comfortable bed, and plenty of hollow chew toys (stuffed with dog food).

It is much easier to watch your pup if he is settled down in a single spot. Either you may move the crate so that your puppy is in the same room as you or you may want to confine your pup to a different room to start preparing him for times when he will be left at home alone. If you do not like the idea of confining your puppy to a dog crate, you may tie the leash to your belt and have the pup settle down at your feet.

Dog breeders and behaviorists may use what’s called “puppy tests” or “temperament tests” to predict what a Poodle will act like when it grows up. Technically, temperament testing assesses puppies for motor ability, sensory and emotional states, sociability, problem-solving ability, interaction with other dogs, and interaction with people.

Poodle puppies are tested at specific ages for their responses to stimuli or situations; they are then assessed as having temperaments such as outgoing, aggressive, passive or timid, dominant or dependent.

Besides temperament testing, it’s also called puppy testing, puppy evaluation testing, or puppy aptitude testing – which can make the task of deciphering terms and meanings breeders and other canine professionals use difficult for prospective puppy buyers. However, you can determine some characteristics through puppy tests, such as:

1. Level of dominance.
2. Whether the pup is receptive to training.
3. Whether the pup will retrieve.
4. Whether the pup is outgoing or introverted.
5. Whether the pup 1s people oriented or antisocial.

What is heeling? Heeling is not the same as going for a walk. Heeling is an obedience exercise in which the dog stays close beside you, paying attention only to you and where you are going. As your puppy grows up, heeling will become the safe way for you to walk your dog through crowds and across streets, ignoring all normal or unusual distractions. It is the easiest lesson to begin with because you’ll be taking your new puppy outside on leash to eliminate and you can practice three times on each trip – on your way out, after he relieves himself, and coming back inside.

This will not be the heeling exercise as done in obedience class, but more of a lesson in “pre-heeling” because you can begin off-lead anywhere that’s safe, indoors or out. And instead of “Heel,” use the friendlier “Let’s go!”

Begin by getting the pup’s attention as he’s trotting along next to you, to make him conscious of what he is doing. Some pups will follow if you lean over, quietly clapping your hands in front of their nose; some like to hear cheerful chatter; others just want to go wherever you go. As you move along, you can add an occasional, “Sparky, watch me!” No doubt by now you’ve noticed that some one-word commands are actually two or three words. Just run them together and your puppy will catch on perfectly.

Hold his attention by walking just quickly enough to make the puppy want to keep up with you. If he’s not paying attention, stop and begin again. No correction. It all begins with just one step in the right direction, followed by verbal praise. Following a treat that smells good may get him started, but if a young pup’s attention is totally elsewhere, this is hot the right moment for a lesson. A few minutes of playtime, followed by a drink of water, may put him back on track to try again. Or wait until next time. You can practice anywhere, anytime, on or off leash. As you notice him walking next to you, take advantage of the opportunity to get in a speedy, “Let’s go! – good dog.”

Be realistic in what you expect of a puppy. A few steps on command earn a reward. A few more steps earn a reward. A week later Sparky is heeling nicely so praise and quit practicing immediately! Practice again later. Puppies arrive in the winter, too, when outside lessons are not possible. A long hallway or a basement is perfect for indoor training. No distractions, limited space so your pup cannot go too far wrong, and you’re sure to have his attention because you are the most fascinating thing around.

Add some right turns for variety and to be sure he is really paying attention. As you make the turn, bend over and clap your hands to keep him on course. Left turns are harder because you have more to do. Put your left foot in front of the pup to gently guide him into the turn. Careful, or you’ll step on the pup and he won’t think this game is very much fun! However, if your left foot happens to bump the puppy, or he plows into it, don’t apologize. If he thinks it was his mistake, he will learn to pay closer attention. Repeat the “Watch me” signal.

There are many types of dog collars and leashes that you can use for helping train your new puppy.  However, while your puppy is as young as seven to ten weeks of age, we recommend that soft cotton collars be put on and off the puppy’s neck several times during the day to help the pup adjust to the sensation of wearing the collar.  Once your puppy is no longer stopping every two feet and scratching at his neck, you can move along and attach a light soft line to his collar and let him drag the line around the house.

You must supervise this event so he will not get tangled up or eat the line.  Generally, after a couple of days the puppy will run around the house and not be intimidated by the drag-line.  This is the time for you to pick up the line occasionally and walk your puppy around the house.  If your pup stops walking, do not pull him, instead induce him with friendly gestures such as a waving hand or “baby” talk until he gets up and walks. At this time you will praise him wildly for moving along with you.

In order to continue making his leash time positive, it is a good idea to drop the line at times so that your puppy will have no opposition from tension on the line. When you notice him moving well along with you, break into a play session.  The more comfortable your pup is with the leash the better it will be for both of you in the very near future.  If you practice this exercise in your home with your young puppy, then it will pay off when you go for your outdoor walks.

Puppies should wear long light lines for two reasons.  First, a long line conditions your puppy to believe that you have influence at a great distance.  Second, short leashes will almost always create forging at the end of the line from the opposition of the tight line.  Cotton, nylon, leather, and coated steel cable are all possibilities for a comfortable long line.  The extendible-type leashes for bathroom walks and training the “come” command, although they do not provide very good control in busy situations.

The term “etiquette” refers to an acceptable mode of social behavior. Unlike commands, which are executed only on order, manners color behavior at all times. Unless you and your dog still live in a cave, he will need some manners. Naturally, your pup’s mother began this phase of his education, teaching him to play gently, to wait his turn, to hold still for his bath, to greet her with deference, to stay close to home, etc.

Now you will continue her good work, housebreaking your pup, helping him  to accept your absences, teaching  him  to   walk  on  a  leash,  respect  your privacy, behave like a gentleman – not a wild animal. Two  aspects  of  your dog’s nature make it possible for you to teach him manners and train him  to obey commands. First, he is a pack animal. His pack instincts allow  him  to respect and revere a strong, clear leader. In fact, his mother  gave  him  a wonderful model for how an alpha dog should conduct herself -  with  supreme confidence, with courage,  with  fairness,  with  intelligence,  with  final authority, with affection.

The second aspect of your dog’s nature that makes him a near perfect pet  is that he is a den animal with an  instinct  to  keep  his  sleeping  quarters clean. It is this instinct that will allow you to  rapidly  housebreak  your pup. And housebreaking  is  the  natural  place  to  begin  his  lessons  in etiquette.

My yorkie pup Dancing in the style of Happy Feet, on request! She is not scared, her tail is wagging, she is wanted to get to me. This came about whilst training her to walk down the stairs.