Puppy Behavior 8 – 11 weeks old.

Puppy behavior is important to be able to understand as when a puppy goes through certain stages in its development their behavior will also go through changes. We will look at the stages a puppy goes through between the ages of 8-11 weeks of age and how you can learn how to train a puppy during this stage.

Puppy Development 8-11 weeks old.

You have just purchased your adorable new puppy and have teaken him home. However, you must try not to get to caught up with the ‘cute puppy’ phase and should start puppy training as early as possible.

You should start basic training.
Don’t allow strangers to scare or intimidate your puppy as this can seriously affect how your puppy interacts with humans in adulthood.
Some dog trainers argue that this phase is so important that if you want your puppy to be a detection dog and you have not taught him the basics of the ‘fetch command’ between 8-11 weeks then they will never be able to become a detection dog

Your puppy will want to explore his surroundings but will have a general fear of everything.
Start socializing your puppy by introducing him to different objects.
Use positive reinforcement to reward good behavior-give your puppy a treat and lots of praise.
Do not be over protective with your puppy. If you give your puppy lots of attention when he becomes scared this will teach him that it is natural to be scared and when he shows fear he gets praise-never a good idea.

Your puppy’s personality will start to really develop so it is imporant to start puppy socialization with other humans and other animals.
Puppy parties are a good socialization tool-but don’t start introducing your puppy to walks or other dogs until your vet says it is ok.
As a new owner you should expect crying and house soiling in the night.
Your puppy will also cry when he is left alone-he is not used to being seperated and he is still a baby.
Monitor fearful behavior as you don’t want irrational fears to develop into adulthood

Your puppy may start tugging and pulling on clothes and even jumping up.
Understand that puppy chewing may happen-but do not allow it.
A puppy soon grows so don’t allow behavior such as jumping up to happen-if he does start ignore your puppy.
Remember that you are the pack leader so you need to be strong and set the House rules
Try not to let anything startle your puppy at this age-watch out for fire works parties
You really need to start introducing your puppy to other dogs as this is how they learn to behave and respond to other dogs.
Although Diarrhoea is common at this age due to changes in diet-if you have any worries at all you must consult your vet.

Yo can start basic puppy training as it is a great way to communicate with your puppy and to build a string relationship-remember these golden rules when puppy obedience training:
Be patient-remember that a puppy has a limited attention span.
Be consistent-set the rules and stick with them.
Positive reinforcement-always heap lots of praise on a puppy that behaves well.
Be rational with your puppy by understanding that you are also learning how to train a puppy so will make mistakes
Be fair at all times with your puppy and accept that their will be accidents in the House.

Start Basic Puppy Obedience Training
Keep pupy obedience training short and fun.
Have lots of treats ready to give your puppy when he behaves well.
Do not give commands in a harsh tone.
Make sure the whole family use the same commands otherwise it will confuse your puppy.
Practice training techniques everyday

Puppy Behavior 8-11 weeks old – what to expect
Fearful behavior
Play biting and chewing
Your puppy may chase other animals
Crying when seperated from you or the family
Minor destructive behavior
Jumping up

If you found this article on puppy behavior and puppy development useful-you may find our more indepth puppy behavior tips useful or visit our site on Dog Obedience Training for more general dog and puppy training advice.

Puppy Obedience Training – How to Succeed. When should you start Puppy Obedience Training? Puppies aged – 5 – 7 weeks

The age of your puppy plays an important part in deciding when you should start the training program…

5 – 7 weeks – This is the age where puppies start to act and behave like dog’s. The mother will start to wean the young puppies from around the forth week (although this can vary slightly.) From the forth week (approx) the mother dog will start to teach the puppy discipline such as the bite inhibition – this is the process of teaching the puppy how much pressure should be put on a bite (so the puppies don’t go around biting too hard on their litter mates.) The age from 5 – 7 weeks is also very important in a puppies development as it is the time when the mother dog starts to teach the puppy social skills – this will enable the puppy to learn how to interact with other puppies, dogs and humans. Important – If a puppy is removed too early during these stages of development it could have disastrous effects on the puppy and its behavior and obedience in later life.

The Importance of Housetraining early…

If puppies are properly trained at this very crucial stage 5 – 7 weeks + they will then learn the basic concepts of housetraining. Puppies (given the choice) will not natural eliminate in their crate/whelping box (if they have been taught this by their mother and not separated too early) even if it means having a quick stumble and wobble to the other side of the crate/whelping box. If for whatever reason (you may have left him to long in the crate/whelping box) your puppy eliminates in his den – he may then think that it’s ok and continue to do this.

Puppies aged 8 – 16 weeks.

This is a critical stage in the life and development of your puppy – if you get it wrong here then you are setting yourself up for major puppy obedience and puppy behavior problems in the future. At this age your puppy starts to realize whether it’s a great world to live in or a terrifying and scary world. IMPORTANT - If your puppy doesn’t meet and interact with other people, children and dog’s at this age he may become scared, and as we know a nervous and scared dog can lead to an aggressive dog. At this point if you are inconsistent with the housetraining process then your puppy will be inconsistent with housetraining in later life.

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Don’t be fooled!

You may think that your puppy is completely housetrained at this stage – he may even go towards the door when he wants to eliminate – however … This is where basic and very common mistakes happen in the training process – YOU are having unrealistic expectations… Just because your puppy THINKS that he is a big boy – he has learned the concept of the process of asking to go out – but biologically he is still a baby and may pee on the way to going outside because as a baby he still struggle with bladder control. At about 8 weeks your puppy can hold his bladder for approximately 2 hours and this will increase to about 4 hours when he reaches 16 weeks. Don’t expect your puppy to hold it – if you do you are asking your puppy to get a urinary tract infection.

Puppies aged 4 – 6 months.

This is where all your training is proven to work or fail!

If you thought everything was going well and your beautiful puppy was housetrained – don’t hold your breath as this where you could be proven wrong. At this age your puppy is very very easily distracted – just when you think he is about to pee he will go and chase a fly – this is normal. At this age puppies can hold their bladder for about 4 – 5 hours approx – without a potty break. At about 6 months your puppy should be able last about 6 7 hours.

Puppies aged 6 – 12 months.

This is when your little puppy starts to develop sexually – this brings it’s own problems.

If you own an unneutered male – because he is developing sexually he may start to raise his leg and pee on the furniture. If you own a female then she may have her first heat anywhere between 6 – 12 months. If you have been consistent in your housetraining then your puppy should be able to hold his bladder between 7 – 8 hours between potty breaks. Don’t make the common mistake of thinking that your puppy is completely house trained at this age – many people let them have the run of the House when they are out – only to find accidents around the House – This is because puppies may not associate their den’s/crate with the entire House until they are about 1 year old or more.

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Who doesn’t love a puppy? They are cute, fluffy, and playful. However, don’t let those innocent puppy eyes fool you – all puppies grow up to be dogs, and puppies growing up without the benefit of puppy training often grow up to be bad dogs. Here are some easy tips for puppy training to make the transition from puppy to dog easier on both of you. 1. Puppies grow up – act accordingly. Many puppy parents hold off on puppy training because, after all, they are just puppies. They think that puppy antics are incredibly cute. However, every time your puppy does something, remember how big your puppy will be as an adult. While a 10 pound lab puppy might be cute playing tug of war with your pant leg, chances are it won’t be nearly as cute when your 100 pound adult lab does the same thing. Basic puppy training means setting guidelines about appropriate behavior from the first day home.

2. Make the crate a second home. Another part of puppy training is to give the puppy his or her own space. The easiest way to do this is with a crate. The crate provides the puppy a place to sleep, a place to keep the puppy safe when you are not around, and an easy way for you to travel. Puppies do not like to go to the bathroom where they sleep, so a crate can be a very useful tool when doing puppy house training. The crate should be large enough that your puppy can stand up, turn around, and lay down comfortably, but not so large that he or she can poop in one corner and lay down in another. Do not leave puppies in the crate for extended periods of time – a puppy can hold his or her bladder for about as many hours as it is months old.

3. Never hit a puppy. It is a common misconception that hitting a puppy is part of puppy training. However, hitting a puppy during puppy training more often than not will lead to only one of two things – a dog that is afraid of you or a dog that is aggressive. Neither is the desired result of puppy training, and this will lead to a dog that does not make a very good pet.

4. Make puppy happy for coming. Getting puppy to come to you when called is one of the first puppy training steps that you should take. Doing this step of puppy training will have many uses – it will allow you to distract puppy from wrongful behaviors, it will allow you to find puppy if it becomes lost, and it can keep puppy from dangers activities like running into traffic. During puppy training, reward puppy every time he or she responds and comes when called. Small treats and lavish praises and pats will teach puppy that coming when called is a good thing.

5. Socialize. An integral part of puppy training is training your puppy the proper behavior around other dogs and people. Take puppy out often, exposing him or her to new situations and new people and pets. Reward the puppy for desired behavior, and reinforce simple commands like sit and stay. Remember to stay calm, as puppy will read your emotions and act accordingly. Starting puppy training early will lead to a lifetime of good times with your dog.

When bringing home a new puppy, you need to be prepared for the worst case scenario. Chances are, your puppy will be an angel compared to what you expect of him/her, but at least you would have covered all bases. As with anything else in life, it is always better to be over-prepared than to be under-prepared.

The most obvious supplies are usually at the forefront of any new pet-owner’s mind. These include feeding and water dishes, a leash, a collar or harness, teething toys, a bed, some sort of confinement and sleeping quarters for the puppy, wee wee pads, food and of course treats.

When choosing feeding and water dishes, consideration must be given to the size of the puppy. Dishes too large may prevent a tiny puppy from eating and dishes too small may provide too little food for a large puppy. Pay particular attention to the amount of food the puppy is currently eating and the height of the puppy when choosing dishes.

A leash and a collar are two very important items as a puppy needs to get used to walking on a leash even before he/she is ready to go outside. Speak to your veterinarian before taking your puppy out for walks but in the meantime you can get your little furry addition to warm up to the leash by walking him/her inside the house. When choosing between a harness and a collar, attention must be focused on the size of the dog. If a dog is very tiny and fragile, a harness may be a better option because it will prevent accidental injury to your puppy when restraining him/her with a leash.

Teething toys are a must in any household with a new puppy. Puppies, just like babies, lose their puppy teeth and gain adult teeth as they grow. Because of this, they constantly like to gnaw on anything in sight. If you provide your puppy with quality teething toys that entertain him/her then the puppy will continue to chew on the provided toys. You must be sure to select toys that you know your puppy will be entertained by. If the puppy is not entertained, he/she will look to other “toys” around the house to play with.

Choosing a confinement area for your new puppy also needs a lot of planning and thought. Puppies should be supervised at all times if they are freely running around the house. However, there will be times when no one is able to supervise the puppy (when you are sleeping or out of the house etc). During these times, the puppy needs to be confined to a crate or a safe area of the house. If left alone, puppies can be destructive and they can cause harm to themselves. The easiest and most popular form of confinement is usually a crate or an exercise pen. However, you may also choose to have the puppy confined to a gated off section of the house like the kitchen, hallway or bathroom. Whichever form of confinement you choose, you need to choose the proper bedding and soiling area for that arrangement as well. Wee wee pads work well as a scented paper that encourages a puppy to go to the bathroom. These pads will help to ensure that a puppy has an area to go to the bathroom when you are not there so that there are not many soiled areas of the puppy’s sleeping quarters. These pads should be placed away from the puppy’s bed so that the puppy can differentiate between the sleeping quarters and the bathroom area as puppies inherently do not like to soil where they sleep.

Feeding your puppy is also another important factor in preparation planning. As far as treats are concerned, they should only be given to a puppy when the puppy has done something to earn a treat. Always follow the guidelines on the packages to ensure that you are not over-treating your puppy. As for feeding your puppy, you need to ensure that you have the same food for your puppy that the puppy has already been eating. Changing your puppy’s food too quickly can cause upset stomach and diarrhea. Keeping your puppy on a constant, healthy formula is the best way to guarantee your puppy a healthy transition to your home.

After all these factors have been considered and decided upon, you need to make an appointment to have your puppy examined by a Veterinarian to keep him/her current on vaccines. If all goes well, then it is up to you when it comes to training and caring for your new puppy. You can always seek the help of a professional trainer if you are not able to train the puppy properly or you can read training tutorials online or buy training books specific to your breed of dog. 

With the proper planning, care and attention, your puppy will be acclimated to your household within a short period of time. Always remember to socialize your puppy with people, kids and other dogs so he/she will be well rounded as an adult. Puppies need lots of sleep, lots of care and most importantly, lots of love.

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Puppy Housebreaking / Housetraining Procedures and Methods

Puppy housebreaking should start just as soon as you bring your new puppy home – and it is the best way to teach your purebred puppy to go outside when it has to relieve itself. How long does it take to do puppy housetraining?

The easiest answer is: as long as puppy housebreaking takes. I had one German Shepherd puppy that housetrained herself pretty much in just over 3 days, and I have had others that took closer to 2 weeks.

All puppies and breeds of puppies are different and not all can be housetrained in the same amount of time. Housebreaking can easily vary from puppy to puppy.

Additionally, keep in mind that eventhough this article deals primarily with purebred puppies (due to the focus of this web site) that many of these housetraining techniques can also be used with most any other puppy breeds- pure or mixed breed.

When you get your new puppy home the first day, start puppy housebreaking him /her immediately. After he has been briefly introduced to his home and new surroundings, give him a drink of water and immediately take him outside to relieve himself. Take the puppy to the housebreaking area that you chose before bringing him home.

Remember, choice of this housebreaking spot is crucial as it enhances the housetraining – so take careful consideration of where “the housebreaking spot” is before bringing your purebred puppy home. This is the spot where you want the puppy “to go”.

There is a direct correlation between the time you actually put into the puppy housebreaking process and the speed in which the housebreaking of the puppy successfully occurs.

This is a very crucial puppy housebreaking step so be patient and wait until the puppy relieves himself. It may take a while especially with all the new things happening to your new puppy, all the new smells, unfamiliar objects, etc. Do not play with the puppy however until after it has “done it’s business”. If you do it may make the puppy forget about going at all. Since housebreaking is all new to the pure bred puppy it doesn’t know what it’s purpose of being in “the housebreaking spot” is in the first place.

As soon as your puppy finishes, praise it excitedly and immediately take him inside. From that point on, take the puppy to the same housebreaking spot each time and encourage him with a command such as “go potty”, “hurry up” or whatever you choose.

Be consistent using this single command only with the process of puppy housebreaking so that the puppy will learn to associate this act with the command. This will be a huge help in the future, especially when in a new environment or location when traveling, visiting relatives/friends, etc. Being completely housebroken and completely reliable is the final outcome you are looking for.

You must watch them like a hawk at all times – in the beginning of housebreaking especially. If you can not keep an eye on your purebred puppy for some reason please put them in a safe and secure puppy proofed spot (such as a crate or some other small room with easy to clean floors, such as linoleum, closed off with a baby gate so you can peek in as needed). If you are consistent in your puppy housebreaking in the very beginning, ESPECIALLY when it is inconvenient to you (late at night, while you are watching your favorite TV show, etc.), you will actually help the new puppy housebreak itself to alert you when it “has to go”.

A puppy should be taken out immediately (to a prearranged housebreaking area outside): when it wakes up first thing in the morning (before if you manage to get up before the puppy),

after each and every meal,

after each and every nap,

and again before he goes to bed for the night.

Another good housebreaking tip is to take up the puppies water early in the evening and to not feed or water it after say, 6:00 at night, otherwise you may have to make more housebreaking potty trips than usual outside to let the puppy relieve itself. Keep the puppy on a strict housebreaking schedule, both feeding and elimination, and you will have puppy housebreaking success much sooner.

More Puppy Housebreaking and Housetraining Secrets: From Housebreaking to Housebroken

Know in advance that a very young puppy will probably not be able to go through the night without relieving itself so get used to taking it out during the middle of the night until it grows enough to sleep through the night.

You wouldn’t expect a young human baby to be toilet trained in a week, would you? Give the same consideration to your new purebred puppy. He will not be able to be considered reliable as far as housebreaking goes either after only a few days.

The puppy is a baby with a small bladder and weak sphincter muscles. Like human babies, your new puppy will be able to go longer between housebreaking breaks as it grows older and will soon become completely housebroken if your are vigilant in the housebreaking process.

Oops… found a mistake, now what?

If you find your puppy has made a mistake in the house and you did not catch it in the act, simply clean the spot without comment. Clean up all residue and clean the area with a bacteria/enzyme digester. These housetraining aids are available at your pet supply or grocery store. This will get rid of both the stain and the smell. And the smell is the most important part to get rid of. Even if you can’t smell the urine, believe me, your puppy can and he will be encouraged to go back to the same spot again unless you remove ALL urine odors. This is absolutely critical in housebreaking your puppy.

If you find the puppy “in the act”, scoop him up as quickly as possible with his tail between his legs (to help prevent spillage) and take him out asap. Say “out” or “quick” as you take him out but never NO. Since No is used for negative things you do not want your puppy to think that eliminating is wrong, no matter where he does it.

If the new puppy thinks that eliminating is bad he will probably start hiding it from you and you do not want that to happen. That is a whole other behavioral issue to contend with and believe me it’s much better and easier to prevent behavioral problems before they happen than having to deal with them later.

Generally speaking, most puppies are naturally clean dogs – assuming they had the right start clear from the beginning. Puppies raised in small runs or cages develop dirty habits right from the beginning making housebreaking harder. Since they are used to playing and sleeping in their own excrement they will not have any problem with continuing to do so. This is not the puppy’s fault, it’s just what they were accustomed to from an early age.

Keep in mind, housebreaking puppies raised in these type of situations can be much harder and more time consuming than usual but housetraining can still can be done.

Overall, puppy housebreaking problems are often more of a human problem than a puppy problem. If the new owner is steadfast in keeping a watch on the purebred puppy in the beginning of ownership, especially during the first 2 weeks of housetraining, then puppy housebreaking can accomplished and the new puppy will become a reliable member of the family as far as bathroom visits are concerned, and will soon be completely housebroken.

Remember, as the new owner you must be patient with the entire housebreaking process. Each puppy will housetrain at his own speed and with your help. Take him out religiously as outlined above, and keep him on a strict feeding/bathroom housebreaking schedule (as well as anytime the GSD puppy acts as though he has to “go out”). It is very important that you learn to read your puppies potty signals during the housebreaking process: sniffing out “a spot”, circling, whining, going to the door, etc.

Finally, think about how you would like to be housetrained if you were in the puppies place? The puppy won’t enjoy being yelled at, jerked around or frightened any better than you would. A kinder, gentler and more patient puppy housebreaking approach will yield much better results, help your bond with your new puppy and develop a more confident housebroken dog. And isn’t that what we all want as purebred dog owners in the first place?

The speed at which a puppy puts on weight varies depending upon the breed of dog and whether or not it receives enough exercise or food. There are general puppy weight estimates you can use as a guideline for raising your puppy, however if you suspect that your puppy is either over or underweight, talk to your vet for a confirmation.

You can check out many different websites that have information on your specific breed of dog and how much he or she should weigh. Many sites publish a puppy weight chart you can use as a general guide. The weight of the dog is all determined on the age and size of the dog. If you have a large breed dog, you might notice their weight and growth to be fast. They should be getting the right amount of weight by a certain age, because for one bigger dogs eat more.

Many sites will publish a separate chart for each dog breed, or you can ask your vet for a puppy growth rate guide. If you are at all unsure whether your puppy is a safe weight, simply pop into the vet’s office for a check-up. If anything is wrong, your vet will be able to advise you of the proper foods your puppy should be receiving, and in some cases recommend a diet food brand or issue a nutrition supplement for under-nourished puppies.

Understanding the physical expectancies of your dog’s breed is the first step in preparing yourself for adequately meeting his needs, not to mention you’ll have a better idea of what to expect in terms of dog growth rate. It’s safe to say that smaller dogs will usually be fully grown around their first birthday, whereas larger dogs, like the Bernese mountain dog, can take 18 – 24 months to reach their full adult size.

To learn more about puppy growth and how to keep them on track with their right growth path, you should check out information for your breed of dog. The puppy one won’t be a puppy for long and he or she needs your help to get to the size you want them to be. The one thing to remember about puppy growth is all dogs are different and different breeds need more than others.

You cannot have a puppy without puppy toys – the more the better. The truth is that most puppies have more toys than many babies. Puppies are playful and they need to learn – the right toys can help in both areas. But just as you are careful about giving children age appropriate toys, you should do the same with puppies. Any small, removable parts, such as eyes, or strings, can be a choking a hazard to a puppy

The toys should be something that your puppy will enjoy – which usually includes chewing. Providing a variety of chew toys may prevent your puppy from chewing on shoes, purses, and furniture. Ideally, the toys you purchase for your puppy will be made exclusively for puppies and their special needs.

Always insure that there are no sharp edges that could injure the pet and keep in mind that puppies are clumsy. This means that if you throw a ball and want your pet to chase it he may trip or run into something – so it is important that you insure his pathway is clear.

A major hazard for dogs is choking. Insure that items such as balls are appropriately sized. If you allow a dog to play with a ball that is too small he could easily swallow it. That of course would present a medical emergency or worse.

Though popsicle sticks and such items are not exactly toys, they can sometimes be confused by puppies as a chew toy. These items can be chewed up, splinter, and again, this would be a medical emergency or worse. Always do your best to protect your puppy from such dangers. Another common concern is electrical cords. Puppies love to chew on them. If they chew through to a live wire they could get shocked. Do whatever is necessary to insure that your puppy does not have access to such cords.

The best place to find proper puppy toys is in a pet store. These specially designed puppy toys are created to be safe and fun for the puppies. You can find toys for chewing when they’re teething and brightly colored toys to stimulate their interest. Toys that move or roll are ideal. After about 3 months, puppies love chewing. Not only is it his natural instinct, but it also helps them cut their teeth.

It’s not necessary to spend a lot of money. If you choose carefully, there are many toys in the children’s department that will work well for puppies. Many balls and cylinders that roll are ideal – as long as there are no small or moving parts and the size is appropriate. Another thing to check is the material the object is made of. Insure that your puppy cannot easily chew the object up or apart, because this of course, could be a choking hazard.

We all know that puppies go through a phase of chewing on things. They will chew on practically anything in sight; this includes dangerous items like electrical cords and poisonous plants. That is why we have to puppy-proof our homes before we bring home our little baby. But unfortunately, puppies also seem to love nipping at our ankles.

Whether it is our ankles or the ankles of other pets in the home, the new puppy is likely to ‘attack’ each time we walk across the floor. Although this activity is cute and even adorable at first, it can become quite annoying in a short period of time. Not only is it irritating but it can also become a costly and hurtful experience.

Sometimes those sharp little teeth and claws land just right, grabbing and tearing through not only our pants, socks, and/or hose, but also our skin. Ouch! This is obviously a problem that new puppy owners frequently complain of.

The good news is that there are some simple solutions to the problem. You clearly want your puppy to understand that you are the one in charge in your home. But you don’t want your puppy to be frightened of you and you understand that he is only playing. The perfect way out is to provide a distraction for your little dog.

Each time that he does his ‘attack’ thing you should be prepared with a distraction of some sort. Many people use noise makers for this. The ‘noise maker’ should be something that is unusual for your home. It could be a clapping of your hands, snapping of your fingers, shaking of a jar of pennies, etc. The point is that the noise needs to get the pup’s attention.

The noise has to be out of the ordinary to do that. But some puppies do not respond to strange noises. They continue with the attack as if nothing else is going on. In that case you could try offering a favorite toy. You will need to place the toy near the puppy and make a real effort to get his attention.

Depending on how much your puppy likes playing toys, this tactic may be effective. The last option is really not a favorite because it can send the wrong message to your puppy. If all else fails you can use a treat to distract your puppy. The bad thing is your pup could learn to associate this misbehavior with a positive reward.

On the up side of things, puppies do grow out of this stage. As with everything else, time will take care of the problem, if your patience last that long!

The majority of puppies contract some form of internal parasite either before or shortly afterbirth. Although this may sound repulsive to you, it’s a normal part of being a dog. There is no need to be excessively concerned, provided you have your puppy checked and treated promptly. Left untreated, intestinal parasites can cause serious harm.

Therefore, it’s essential to bring along a small, fresh sample of your puppy’s stool when you make your first veterinary visit. When the stool is dissolved, eggs or parasites from this sample will be clearly visible under a microscope. Do not assume your puppy has no intestinal parasites simply because no worms have shown up in the stool.

Adult worms often live exclusively within the intestinal tract; the tiny eggs they release serve as the only clue to their existence. Furthermore, other internal parasites, even as mature organisms, never reach a size visible to the naked eye. Let your veterinarian discover which type, it any, of these parasites inhabits your puppy’s system and treat it accordingly.

Socialization and training your Dalmatian puppy need to start the very day of his arrival in your home.  You should not address him without calling him by his name.  A short, simple name is the easiest to teach because it catches the puppy’s attention quickly, so avoid giving him elaborate names.  Always address the pup by the same name, not a whole series of pet names because the latter will only confuse your puppy.  Say his name clearly, and call him over to you when you see him awake and wandering about.  When he comes, make a big fuss over him for being such a good dog.  He will then quickly associate the sound of his name with coming to you and a pleasant experience.

It is not too soon to start familiarizing him to the feel of a light collar, which can start as early as several hours after his arrival.  Chances are he may hardly notice it or he may struggle, roll over, and try to rub it off his neck with his paws.  You can divert his attention when this happens by offering a tasty treat, a toy, or by petting him.  Before long he will accept the strange feeling around his neck and will no longer be aware of it. 

Next is the lead; attach it and then immediately take the puppy outside or try to redirect his attention with things to see and sniff.  He may struggle against the lead at first, biting at it and trying to free himself.  Do not pull him with it at this point; just hold the end loosely and try to follow him if he starts off in any direction.  Normally his attention will soon turn to investigating his surroundings if he is outside or if is taken into an unfamiliar room in your house; curiosity will take over and he will become interested in sniffing around the surroundings.  Just follow him with the lead slackly held until he seems to have completely forgotten about it; and then try to get him to follow you. 

Do not be rough or jerk at him; just tug gently on the lead in short quick motions, repeating his name or trying to get him to follow your hand while holding a bite of food or a favorite toy.  If you have an older lead-trained dog, then it should be easier to get your Dalmatian puppy to follow along after him.  In any case, the average puppy learns quite quickly and will soon be walking along nicely on the lead.

After the pup has a good idea of what you want him to do, begin to ease off using tidbits every time. Do not let yourself use tidbits as a bribe. It is very easy to fall into the trap of thinking that if you give a puppy a treat he will be good. But from the dog’s viewpoint, it looks like you are treating him as top dog and whatever he wants to do is okay with you. So only use tidbits when you are teaching a specific thing and only long enough to be sure he has learned it and associates the act with the word for it. Then ease off to the point of stopping the use.

Do not expect overnight results: Puppies learn in spurts and starts. One day he may know absolutely everything and perform to perfection. The next day it is as though he never had a moment’s training. Too many owners make the mistake of thinking that if their puppy does it right once or twice he knows it forever, but it really takes hundreds of repetitions for a puppy to learn something.

A puppy or a dog needs at least one month of consistent daily repetition before any action becomes a part of his routine. Train the pup consistently for one month, then continue for one month longer than you think is necessary. Then you can expect him to know what you are talking about, but you must continue daily use of the commands, using an occasional reminder when the pup is having an “off” day.

Be consistent: There is a wide range of individual approaches to working with a puppy. Each person will be guiding his own puppy to live in harmony with the lifestyle of that particular home. Similar to raising children, there are many different learning environments that can, each one, be successful. The key to success is to be consistent in your demands and your discipline.

Puppies need feedback: A puppy learns by getting feedback from his owner. Praise him so he will know when he has done something right. Otherwise he will never learn what it is you want him to do. Then he will get confused because you keep nagging him and hollering at him and he does not know why. He will turn into a hyperactive nervous wreck. So let him know when he has done a good job.

Hands off: Keep your hands off the puppy as much as possible except to pat in praise. It may be necessary once in a while to manipulate him with your hands, but this should be the exception. It is easy to get into the habit of constantly grabbing, pushing and pulling. A puppy is not learning unless he is actually doing the action himself. This is why it is so important to guide him into doing what you want. The actions (sit, heel, come) that he repeats under his own power quickly become a part of his conditioning and he will begin to repeat them willingly.

If you take all the previous points into consideration, you are automatically teaching your puppy to pay attention. By adhering to his physical and psychological needs, you will find that he will respond to you and you will be well on your way to building a good puppy-person relationship.

It is important for your puppy to feel he is a valuable individual. Try to have your training sessions in a relatively quiet place. Because he is so playful, he can be easily distracted by other people and activities. If he is constantly being bombarded by other sights and sounds, it will be difficult for him to get the message from you that you enjoy being with him.

Use words:The only way he will learn to associate the command with the action is if you use the word every time you guide him into doing what you want. A puppy can learn a very large vocabulary with such words as “Outdoors,” “Bedtime,” “Go for a walk,” as well as the basic commands.

Reward your pup: To teach him anything, you must first have his attention and then you must reward him as soon as he has done what you ask. The reward can take three forms; a tidbit, a pat, or your voice. Consider the use of tidbits a highly successful means of puppy training. By guiding his behavior with it, you can avoid pushing and pulling with your hands and all of the jerking and pulling on the leash.

A puppy learns much more quickly when he performs the activity himself rather than being pushed or pulled into doing it. Then, as he begins to understand what you mean by “Sit” or “Come” or whatever, you can use your hand or leash to perfect the performance, thereby keeping handling at a minimum. Timing is of the utmost importance when using tidbits in puppy training. Obviously, your puppy is not going to know what you mean by the different commands when you first begin to train him, and the only way he will learn that he is doing the right thing is when he receives the reward at the moment he does it.

An example in using tidbits is to teach the command “Sit.” If you have a puppy who prefers bouncing around and absolutely hates sitting, you may have to begin by rewarding a bending of the hind legs. If you were to wait until he sits all the way down with his bottom on the floor, you would never get the job done. After a few rewards for partial sitting, the puppy will suddenly sit all the way, at which time you will not only reward him but tell him how marvelous he is.

Another example of rewarding with tidbits is with the heeling exercise. This is the most difficult thing for most puppies to learn. Too often, it involves excessive jerking on the leash. The more a puppy is being pulled, the more he resists and pulls in the opposite direction. Their natural tendency is to run off and sniff around. Cheese tidbits is very effective in overcoming the problems of teaching a puppy to walk beside us. It works even better off-leash (but only for a minute at a time).

As you begin walking, the instant the puppy begins to look away from you, get his attention with your voice and give him a tidbit. This will keep him at your side for another few steps. Repeat this a few times during each session, reversing your direction and taking some turns. Then stop while you are both still performing well and give him lots of praise with your voice along with some pats.

Whatever your pup’s pedigree and whatever your goals for him, any puppy is still an emotionally immature animal. At the same time,  no two pups are exactly alike and what works for one puppy is not necessarily best for another. You must constantly be aware of your pup’s personality and of how you can get him to pay attention to you. However, there are some general characteristics of puppy training that are important to working with all puppies. These are basic principles which should be adapted by you as the basis of working with your puppy.

Do not get tough: Emotionally and psychologically, the puppy is still extremely sensitive. This means that learning takes place quickly, but also that fears can easily occur and inhibit learning. Pups cannot take pressure or harsh treatment. Repetition is the key to puppy training. Never punish him if he does not do what you want him to do. This will defeat the purpose of the training and cause him to dislike the entire procedure. Bad behavior during training sessions is more often than not a sign of the pup’s lack of confidence or understanding of what you want him to do. Therefore, many repetitions will be needed.

Keep it simple: A puppy learns to do things in a step-by-step manner. For example, in teaching him to stay, do not expect him to stay put for several minutes at a time while you are off someplace away from him. You must first teach him to stay while you stand toe-to-toe in front of him, then to stay when you are standing a couple of feet out in front of him, then to stay while you walk around him, then to stay while you are standing several feet away and not holding on to the leash. Many pups will take several weeks to progress through these steps, but they are necessary if you want to teach “Stay” effectively. If you tell him to do something before you have properly trained him to do it and then scold him for not doing it, you are asking for trouble. The pup will lose his confidence and will learn not to try.

Be brief: Puppies have a very short attention span. A pup learns only while he is paying attention to you, so it does not accomplish anything to keep on training when he is mentally tired even though physically he is still very lively. Five minutes at a time is long enough. With many puppies, two minutes is long enough to begin with, gradually moving up to five minutes.

Build confidence: Your puppy needs confidence-building as well as discipline and he will constantly be telling you by his body language which one he needs more at any particular time. Relax while you are with him; smile; speak in a pleasant voice; play running games with him. In puppy training, building confidence means knowing what you expect from your pup.

In order to properly train your puppy, you need to know what to do and the right time to do it. Below is a list of curriculum to guide you during the first month of acquiring your pet.

Week One: During your puppy’s first week home (he should be around 8 weeks old), it is important to take him for a vet check up. Sample of his stool is checked for worms and preventive inoculations are given. Begin teaching your puppy his name from day one. Set up his eating area as well as his crate or sleeping quarters. Begin the process of housebreaking as well as collar and leash training. Watch him while he plays by himself and observe his style and personality. Play gently and enthusiastically but avoid roughhousing. Say “Ok” whenever you feed him, hand him a toy or a treat, and as you walk out the door with him.

Week Two: As you play with your puppy, gradually add simple phrases and words into the games. If he is retrieving, say “Take it “as you throw the object. Praise him when he brings the object back to you. Say “Out” as he drops it and praise him again. Continue with “Ok” during meal, for going out, with playing, housebreaking, leash training, and observing.

Week Three: During your puppy’s third week home, begin to correct him gently for nipping and for chewing on shoes, cords, and furniture. Provide a toy for him to chew instead. Even if he stays inside the house, be sure to walk him around on his leash everyday. Always use eye contact. Say “Watch me” to draw his attention to your eyes. Praise him for looking at you. This method teaches him to look to you for direction. Begin to tie his leash to your belt and have him trail around wherever you go; starting for a few minutes at a time, working up to an hour as it becomes easier. This will help him bond to you and will also help with his training.

Start teaching table manners, beginning with “No” and “Ok” for food. Initiate the “Sit” and “Stay”, working for no more than five minutes at a time this week. If you are at home most of the time, make sure that you leave him alone for short periods of time during the day to get him used to being alone. Begin to correct the stealing of food and found objects – keeping in mind that prevention is your best correction. Correct excessive barking, noise, and whining.

Week Four: Carry on with all of the above training, adding more time that he walks properly on leash. Continue practicing “No” and “Ok” with food no more than twice per week. Continue to let him explore the house under supervision, both on and off the leash. Initiate the “Come” and “Down stay” to the training program. Work with your puppy no more than fifteen minutes at a time. If he is going out, you may start teaching him to “Heel” but do it very gently. Get him used to grooming procedures such as brushing, nail clipping, and occasional baths.

Whether a newborn puppy is fed by his own mother or by his owner, he must eventually be taught to depend on something besides milk for his food. This learning process is called “weaning”, and represents the changing of a puppy’s diet from liquid to solid. At about three to four weeks of age, as soon as their eyes open and they are able to move about with some ease, most puppies will begin to experiment with the solid foods being fed to their mother. When this happens it is time to begin to teach the puppies to eat from the pan.

Instituting such an early feeding procedure accomplishes four important things. First, it allows you to feed the puppies a food that is more satisfactory for them than the food you are feeding their mother. Second, it speeds up the weaning process because the puppies will learn to eat solid food at an earlier age. Third, it begins the social interaction between the puppy and his owners. And finally, it allows you to reduce the mother’s intake of food at the same rate you increase that of her puppies. The latter prevents the mother from overeating as the early feeding of her pups promotes reduced lactation.

Weaning is a learning process in which the pups’ digestive system is trained to eat solid foods. Before the puppy is born, he is fed by his mother with pre-digested nutrients. When he is whelped the puppy drinks the mother’s milk. The mother’s milk contains some of the most digestible nutrients that a puppy can eat. At weaning the puppy’s digestive system must learn to handle each new food in turn, as it comes to him. Similar to all learning processes, the weaning process cannot be taught faster than the puppy’s ability to learn.

In formulating the diet, the ingredients that make up the food fed to a puppy that is starting to wean must be highly digestible and non- irritating. An excellent weaning diet can be made easily by preparing slurry using a specialized dietary animal foods designed to be fed to patients with gastro-intestinal disorders, mixed into equal parts of the mother’s milk substitutes. “Half and half” coffee cream can also be used. High-quality ration-type commercial foods also make adequate solid foods to mix with the liquid part of the diet. In all cases, ¼ to ½ tablespoonful of grated, raw liver should be added to each can of food just before it is mixed. The slurry can be either beaten with a fork or mixed in a blender.

For larger breeds, it may be more practical to use the higher quality, expanded dry foods in combination with the canned foods to blend with the liquids. Addition of dry foods may also help these larger, faster-growing puppies to get sufficient nutrients in the quantity of food they are able to consume in. Whatever the mixture used, the quantity of milk substitute in it is gradually reduced, so that when the puppy is about six or seven weeks old, he is only eating pure, solid food.

Puppies and dogs learn new things or change their behavior only if the undesirable behavior is punished or the desirable behavior rewarded. We can reward a dog for performing certain tasks on command, such as sitting, lying down, or coming, with simple petting, affection, and praise. You can also use rewards for coming when called, for sitting when strangers arrive at the door rather than jumping up on them, or for going to rest on his bed when people are visiting.

For rewards you can use reinforcement such as petting or verbal reassurance like saying “good dog.” Another reward is food treats, if given judiciously, especially foods the puppy really enjoys such as a piece of meat. It is not our position that using food treats to train puppies “spoils” them, because the treat may simply be phased out by giving it less and less frequently, while retaining the praise and affection.

Most puppies learn rapidly and quite willingly if there are rewards, and in most cases punishment is not necessary. Praise and affection, along with food treats, can be used to house-train puppies, especially when they are taken outdoors and can eliminate in a desirable area.

Punishment can be thought of as being either interactive or remote. In interactive punishment, the owner hits an animal with his hand or with a rolled-up newspaper, shouts at it, or in other ways makes it obvious that an aversive stimulus is coming from the person. The animal clearly associates the unpleasant stimulus with the person giving it.

Unfortunately, dog owners are frequently misguided about how to use interactive punishment. Interactive punishment is indicated when owners must assert their dominance over dogs to maintain an acceptable dominant-subordinate relationship, especially when threatened. A dog’s growling or snapping at you when it is not a reflection of fear is best met with force. Dogs are social animals that respond naturally to factors in a dominance hierarchy, and their growling or snapping at you is an indication that they have not completely accepted your dominant position. In fact, insufficient dominance, one of the most common behavioral problems of a dog-owner relationship, often stems from a lack of assertiveness on the owner’s part.

Breeds differ in the degree to which they display a tendency to be dominant over their owners. The tendency to be dominant also varies with whether we are dealing with male or female dogs. A breed such as a Shetland Sheepdog, which is very low on tendency to be dominant, may never need to be confronted with interactive punishment, whereas a Doberman Pinscher or Akita may need periodic reinforcement of the dominance position with a sharp voice.

An obvious limitation in puppies is that they tire easily, both emotionally and physically. Being young, the prey instinct isn’t synchronized with the outside world; the puppy can’t pace himself. He’ll go at full tilt toward whatever is interesting him until he’s exhausted. Conversely, he’ll easily panic if something is upsetting him. When tired, a puppy will only learn to be nervous rather than how to do an exercise.

In addition, a puppy can’t be expected to inhibit a natural impulse. Puppies just want to have fun through the drive to bite; that is what millions of years of instinctual development are telling them to do.

Another limitation in the puppy is that outside the scope of the simple prey instinct, he can’t change direction or moods quickly. He gets into following the prey instinct along its natural path and can’t get out of it until it reaches a natural conclusion or until he’s exhausted. It would be like discovering an intriguing path in the forest and wanting to walk it to see where it leads. Puppies, like children, need time to explore, and we have to guide them gently through transitions of mood with an alternative attraction such as a piece of food, a happy tone of voice, or a ball. A puppy needs a good reason to change a mood.

Knowing and recognizing these limits is the sensitive aspect of being a dog owner. It should now be easier to see how a puppy could be overloaded and given a bad experience in a very subtle way. For example, you could be asking him to return the ball to you when he’s tiring and you’ve thrown it once too often. This may seem a minor point, but to a puppy, bad experiences have a cumulative weight and their load never goes away. Recognize when your puppy has reached his limit so that an unreasonable demand isn’t placed on his behavior.

Many believe that most of what a dog does is a random charting of the world through the experience of positive and negative reinforcements. Nothing could be further from the truth.  The negative is most broadly defined when drive loses its focus or none is to be found; then the security of the order is itself shattered. All of a sudden, the dog is in the midst of chaos as surely as if a predator swooped into the den and was ravaging the litter. It is a shocking experience that he is not able to cope with and for which a flurry of subsequent positives can never compensate. Therefore, a correction is something that needs to be carefully administered at the appropriate time. It should guide and enhance focus rather than be used as a means of inhibiting the individual.

As someone who wants to raise their puppy to become a winning show dog there are several things that you should be doing while waiting for your puppy to grow up.  Let’s take just a little time right now and discuss how to do some of these things.

Let’s start with the lead-breaking of your puppy since it is so important to the attractive stylish gait of a show dog.  Let’s assume that when you bought him he had never been on a lead.  There are many methods advocated by dog enthusiasts.  Some allow the young puppy to drag a lead for a few days so he won’t object to it.  Some folks attach a light weight to a short lead around the puppy’s neck and let him carry it around so that he will learn to hold his head up high.  Some use the reward method giving the dog a tidbit if he does the job well and withholding it if he does not.  Once the puppy is well lead-broken it does not matter which method was used in the training since the outcome is all we are interested in.  After trying many, here is the method that averages as the best.

Start training the puppy just as soon as you get him.  If you keep him in a run or pen, every time you take him on a lead you should keep in mind that this will be his training period.  However, if the puppy lives in the house with you and, at least in the beginning, has to be taken out on a lead to relieve himself, there should be a difference in the manner in which you and the puppy behaves while he is on the lead.

Don’t try to lead-break him for shows when he has other and more important business on his mind.  Allow the puppy to sniff the ground and use a longer lead, giving him ample time to take care of his duties.  If he is allowed to roam where he wants to and when he wants to he will scarcely be aware of the fact that he is on a lead and the duties will be taken care of quickly.  With that important business out of the way you can then settle down to the training.

Now tighten up on the lead.  Put the collar as far forward under the dog’s jaw as you can.  He will resent it, perhaps fight it, some dogs jumping into the air and screaming as though they had been hurt.  Wait until he quiets down and then start walking in the direction you want to go and talk to the dog.  Call him by name and keep your voice pleasant.  Don’t drag him but keep the lead taught so he can feel in which direction he is being coaxed to go.  As soon as he takes a few steps with you, praise him loudly and keep encouraging him to go along.

After he goes along, try releasing the lead a bit and if he keeps going fine!  If not, use short jerks to keep him going.  After the puppy goes along a reasonable distance, stop and pat him, praise him to the skies. Then start out again. Repeat this performance several times and until he goes along with you without your having to tug at him.

These are just two things you can do to build rapport between you and your puppy and at the same time teach him to respond positively to learning so that his advanced training will be easy.

Tracking: Puppy tracking is a wonderful way to get you and your puppy out for a walk. Tracking is natural for a dog and is relatively easy to teach, at least for short distances.

1. Find a park or a nice open area. The initial site does not need to be very big. Tie your puppy to something and let him watch you “lay a track” by placing tidbits on the ground one foot apart in a straight line for ten feet. Also let him watch you put his favorite toy at the end of the track.

2. Walk back through the same track to the puppy. Take him to the first piece of food, point to it and say “Track.” Encourage him to put his head down and keep it down by pointing to the next piece of food. He will quickly start smelling the food from piece to piece! When he reaches the toy, praise him and play with the puppy and the toy. Repeat this exercise three times.

3. If you practice two or three times a week on short tracks, he will become reliable pretty quickly. As his nose keeps to the ground, spread the treats a little farther apart each time you “track.” When he can go fifty yards in one direction, lay another track at a 45-degree angle to the right or left. You should also have someone else start laying the tracks so that the puppy will learn to track different people. Do not try to hurry things along by going too far too fast or by making too sharp turns.

Fetching: Puppy fetching is important and helpful. It both uses energy and teaches the puppy to return to you. Again, this exercise will help as a basis for more advanced training later on.

1. Find a toy that your puppy really likes. Sometimes this can be difficult if your puppy is the type who does not like to play (and there are those types, it’s up to you to teach them to play). A little agility work can loosen up a reluctant puppy, and when they are all wound up they are more apt to fetch. Try using a soft sock or small stuffed toy.

2. Put your puppy on a twenty-foot line. Place the toy in front of your puppy and back up, waving the toy gently on the floor as you move back. When the puppy first grasps the toy, tell him “Good boy!” and very gently tug it for just a second to make him hold it (no tug of war). Let go and praise him as he carries it. If he drops it, repeat the process.

3. After a few successes, throw the toy a few feet from the puppy and tell him “Fetch.” When he gets it, praise verbally and let him carry it for a few seconds. Gently pull him to you (do not make him drop the toy by tugging too hard). When he reaches you, offer him a piece of treat for the toy. When he drops the toy, give him the treat. Repeat until he understands what you want. You will both greatly benefit from this game!

Many dog owners make the mistake of giving commands in long sentences that only another human being would understand. You get certain inflections in the dog’s bark or whine, but only another dog understands “dog talk.” Why should you expect your dog to understand all the words you use? True, your pet will love to hear you talk. Still, it is your tone that reaches and pleases him.

In his lifetime a dog comes to recognize many words, but he can be a well- trained, obedient pet by knowing just a few. He must know: “Come!,” “Out!,” “Stop it!,” “No!,” and “Down!” To them, add “Walk?,” or “Want to go for a walk?,” “Get in your chair!,” “Go to bed!,” or some such command to direct action, usually taught with a gesture or by actually lifting the dog to the indicated spot. Of course, he soon knows “Good dog!” or “Bad boy.” If you think though that he “understands every word,” try bawling him out some time in a honey-sweet tone. That little tail will wag madly; it sounds mighty nice to him!

The most important word is his name. You may decide what you will call your puppy before you get him, or his name may come out of the blue, but do not delay choosing it. Use it every time you speak to him, over and over again, until he knows it as well as you do. Once he knows it, he will rush to respond because of your affectionate tone, or hang his head, ashamed, because your voice carries reproach.

He will soon learn your name, too, and those of other members of the family. To these, he will add the names of friends, neighboring children, and their dogs – names which will be useful in his daily life as your friendly, well-mannered pet.

The capacity to learn is born in every puppy, to a greater or lesser degree. Your puppy starts learning the moment he enters your house. (He starts learning about you and soon knows whether you or he will be the boss.) His capacity to learn grows as he does and is fully developed at the age of about a year. Although he eventually stops growing, he never stops learning.

One way to train the puppy, and prepare him for more formal training when he is an adult, is to play with him. This may sound simple, but in our busy lives we often fail to play with a new puppy as much as we should. At first he is a novelty, but it becomes “too much trouble” to give the time to him, and we tell the eager, bouncing little fellow to “be a good dog and lie down.” He’d much rather be a good playfellow and later lie gladly at your feet for a snooze.

The game of fetch-and-carry, for instance – running after a ball or a stick, catching it and then bringing it back. . .is a chance for obedience training. The command “Go fetch!” may later be useful. Vary the game by substituting other items for the ball or stick. At first all these toys should be hidden in some place that is easy to find; then make it harder. Identify objects by word until he associates the word with the object – your slippers, the newspaper, etc. Fetch soon becomes a known word, and so does find, when you use them often for the same purpose.